Once you have a plan and solid base for your paver patio, it’s time to begin laying pavers. Begin at a corner and work your way across, using your first corner as your reference point. Be sure to check your work periodically – any jogs or curves in your pavers will only become worse as you get further into the project. After laying down a paver, tap it firmly with a rubber mallet to set it into place.

If you have any curves, angles or unusual edges, lay the pavers past the edge first. Mark the edge with a construction pencil or chalk. Then, using a saw with a special diamond paver blade, remove and cut each paver individually. This makes it clear where each paver belongs, saving you a lot of confusion and stress. If you’ve already laid out your edging, you may have to remove a section as you finish your corner; once you’ve finished all the cuts, don’t forget replace the edging.

Once your pavers have been set you may wish to compact them. Some paver manufacturers do not recommend this, as it may crack them; be sure to read any instructions or warning that came with your pavers. Contact your local landscape company or hardware store if you’re not sure whether you should compact your pavers.

To finish the joints of your paver patio, sprinkle sand over the pavers and brush it into the cracks with a broom. This helps to prevent weeds and other plants from taking root and growing up through your patio. Misting the sand with water will help to settle it in the cracks. Repeat to fill any gaps which reappear. This sand should be compacted with a light tool to avoid cracking the pavers.

Finally, use a paint roller or garden sprayer to apply a clear masonry sealer to the paver patio. This will make the pavers more weather-resistant and less likely to stain. As with your other supplies, this can be found at your local home and garden center.

You’re almost done! Now that the pavers are in place, backfill the perimeter of the patio with soil, gravel, bark chips or similar material. Be sure to use enriched soil if you are planning to plant grass along the edge of your patio. For a more professional touch, have your landscaping company design and install a decorative plant arrangement around your new paver patio.

There – your paver patio is finished! You’re now ready to enjoy the gorgeous summer days on your brand new patio. As time goes on, you may need to add more sand between the pavers to keep the joints filled. If you’ve planted grass around your patio, it may be subject to frequent use, so don’t forget to overseed it in the spring or fall. A little maintenance is all that’s necessary to keep your paver patio looking nice.

Stand back and appreciate your work – you just built a paver patio! It will serve you well in all seasons and for all events. Grab your lawn furniture and grill and invite some friends over to celebrate the occasion with a kick-off barbecue!

Determine the desired level for the finished patio surface. This can be calculated by estimating the depth of your base materials and adding the thickness of your pavers. When determining the depth of your base materials, keep in mind that a thicker base layer drains better, so if you’re in a moist climate be sure to plan for a thick layer of gravel and sand.

Level the area, then compact the dirt to the desired depth with a plate compactor. This is an essential step – if the dirt is not compacted, your patio may settle. You can rent the plate compactor from your local equipment rental or hardware store.

Once the base layer of dirt is compacted, put down some commercial-grade landscape fabric. This helps to discourage weeds and grass from growing up through your patio. It is also beneficial to prevent uneven settling and keep the patio as level as possible. Leave about 6” on all sides, to be trimmed after the pavers are all laid down.

Next, cover with a two inch layer of gravel. Level this layer and compact it with the plate compactor. Repeat until you’ve reached approximately 6” of compacted gravel. If you’re planning for very moist conditions, you may want to make this layer even thicker. Put 1” of sand on top of the gravel. This layer should also be compacted to ensure a solid paver patio.

Finally, lay down an even 2″ layer of sand over the compacted sand and gravel and level it without compacting. This will provide an even surface to set your pavers on. The best way to accomplish this is to screed the sand with a straight 2×4 or other straight-edge. Be sure your patio base is flat, as your pavers will follow the contour of this layer.

Once your base layer is finished, it’s almost time for the pavers. Before you bring the pavers out, lay out your landscape edging around the perimeter of the patio to prevent shifting or sliding. Your local hardware store will have a variety of materials and styles of edging to fit all of your needs. Aluminum edging is long-lasting and durable, which makes it a safe bet for most applications.

Once you have a solid base and edging for your paver patio, you are ready to start on the patio itself. One last time, double-check to be sure it’s cleaned and level – after the pavers are down, it’s difficult to correct mistakes. Does everything look right? Good! Next, we’ll get started on laying the pavers and finishing the patio.

Before picking up a shovel or ordering material, you’ll need to design your patio. This includes surveying your current landscaping, checking for buried utilities, and picking your paver pattern.

First, you must consider the features of your yard. Keep in mind that you’ll need to dig a base for your paver patio, at least seven inches deep. Familiarize yourself with the location of any buried electrical lines or other underground utilities. Planning your patio around any plants or water features make it more interesting, but also more complicated. Identify any other obstacles and be alert to their effects as you develop your plan for the paver patio.

Next, come up with a plan for the size and shape of your patio. To keep it simple, you may want to stick with a rectangular paver patio; this saves many angled cuts and other difficult tasks. If you’re up for a challenge, integrating curves or circles into your patterns can make for an interesting decorative feel to the patio. Keep in mind your timeframe as well – the more complicated your patio, the longer it will take to finish.

When calculating the materials for your paver patio, multiply the length times the width times the depth. Include an additional 5-10% to ensure you have enough material. In addition to the pavers, you’ll need gravel and sand to build your base, and a covering of landscape fabric to keep the weeds out. Don’t forget the edging! If you’re not sure what type to get, ask someone at your local home improvement store.

Pavers come in many different sizes, shapes and colors. Your local home improvement store is a good place to view the selection. When it comes to pavers, the bigger they are the faster the job goes. Don’t order them too big though, or you could hurt yourself or those helping you. Also, if you’re looking for a more artistic feel, the smaller ones are more versatile, allowing you to create more complex patterns in a smaller space. Keep your personal preferences and existing landscaping elements in mind while choosing the right paver stones.

Ok, you’re almost there! Before you begin your project, be sure you have all of the necessary tools and materials to complete the project. Taking shortcuts to make up for a lack of proper tools or materials will leave you with an unstable, out-of-level patio. Remember: it’s easier to do it right the first time. Taking extra care will ensure you have a patio which will last a lifetime.

Is your lawn looking thin? It’s probably time to overseed your grass. Overseeding your lawn during the spring or fall replenishes old lawn and brings back the green, lush grass. With summer coming, now is the time to get your yard ready for the barbaques, volleyball or other summer activities by overseeding your lawn.

January/February            Turf Gro 20-3-7 Cool Season (slow release)

Scotts GREEN MAX Southern Lawn Fertilizer

April/May                            Turf Gro 23-2-10 Spring

Scotts GREEN MAX Southern Lawn Fertilizer

June/July/Aug                   Turf Gro 24-2-9 Summer

Scotts Super Turf Builder with Summer Guard

Sept/Oct                              Turf Gro 21-2-15 Winterizer

Scotts Lawn Pro Super Turf Builder with Winter guard

Nov/Dec                              Turf Gro 20-3-7 Cool Season

Scotts GREEN MAX Southern Lawn Fertilizer

Your soil will affect how often and in what quantity you will need to fertilize.   There are several choices of fertilizer on the market and as a result sometimes it’s just easier to do nothing rather than try to figure it out.  Or maybe you took a stab at it and now your grass is 8” tall and growing faster every day. In Decoding Fertilizer we help to explain why this happened in more detail.  But don’t give up.

In Vancouver Washington we have several soil types that landscapes are built on: Loam, Clay, Sand, and any mixture of these.  Clay tends to pass water much slower and means that chemicals/fertilizers tend to stay on the surface a little long than sandy soils.  So if you have a clay soil under your landscape you will likely only have to fertilize 4 times a year.  However, if you have a high sand soil, plan on fertilizing 5 and up to 6 times a year.

As a general rule:

Fertilize 5 times a year

Use a slow release fertilizer.  10-12 week duration.

Use a broad cast spreader. DO NOT use a drop spreader.

If in doubt give us a call: Boulder Falls Inc.  360-991-1347

Your yard can be an intimidating task especially once you are confronted with a bag of fertilizer that has three numbers that you have no idea what they mean.  Ask someone about the numbers and you will just get words thrown at you such as: Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium; leaving you wondering what language they are speaking and how it translates.

Fertilizer is food for your plants.  Like the nutrition information on the food you eat, the numbers on the fertilizer bag will tell you what you are feeding your plant and what you will get in return for your investment.

Those three numbers have to be there by law and are called the Fertilizer’s Analysis.  They indicate, respectively, the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium in the fertilizer.  Each of those three macro-nutrients can and will do something very important for your plants.

Nitrogen promotes thick leafy green color and growth.

Phosphorous promotes healthy root system, flower, and fruit growth.

Potassium helps with a plant’s endurance and vitality.

If the numbers are percentages why don’t the equal %100?

20-10-10? But that only adds up to 40%, what else am I putting into my yard and garden?

Most likely the remaining portion of your fertilizer has micro-nutrients, or ingredients that help with the even spreading of fertilizer or both.  To avoid spreading the fertilizer unevenly and having unattractive brown spots or dense patches of extreme growth; a fertilizer includes ingredients that make sure a uniform layer of fertilizer will go over the desired area and give you the best look possible.

What fertilizer should I use?

To begin, try to avoid an extremely focused fertilizer such as 35-0-02.  Rather, your fertilizer should have a little bit of the described macro-nutrients.

Healthy lawns need

a Nitrogen strong fertilizer.  The Nitrogen will give your lawn that deep, lush, green look and help it remain healthy while naturally resisting weeds.

Starting lawn – and generally any starting plants for that matter – a good even fertilizer is best.  Something like 20-10-10  or 16-16-16 will give your new flora the best chance at a healthy life.

Flowering plants and vegetables will need a Phosphorous rich fertilizer.  The Phosphorous will help your plants root system and ensure that the flowers /produce grow in more beautiful than ever.

Trees need a Nitrogen heavy fertilizer; 16-4-8 will be the best.

If in doubt, 16-16-16 or something close, is always a safe bet for all plants, trees, and vegetables until you learn a little more about what you need.

How do I know what nutrients my soil is lacking?

In order to know what nutrients your soil needs you will need a sample of your soil tested.  You will have to send away a sample of your soil and the testing process generally takes ten days.  This testing will cost approximately fifteen dollars.  It is best to get your soil tested once every few years.

What is the difference between organic and synthesis fertilizers?

Organic fertilizers are, more often than not, slower to release and have a much lower concentration of nutrients [Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium] than synthesis fertilizers.  Synthesis fertilizers are usually much cheaper than organic fertilizers and have to be applied fewer times a year.

What is the difference between fertilizers and soil amendments?

By definition a fertilizer must have a high concentration of nutrients in order to help plants growth and health; however a soil amendment’s purpose is to actually change and help the soil, such as structure, drainage and microbes, and actually have little nutritional value.

What are slow release fertilizers?

Slow release fertilizers [ex. fertilizer spikes] are covered in a material that slows the release of the nutrient and can evenly give the plants nutrients over time.  They are considered too expensive for general use.

Reference:

1)         Fertilizer By The Numbers – By Patrick St. John

2)         Fertilizer Basics – Bachman’s Floral, Gift, and Garden

3)         What Do The Numbers On The Bag Of Fertilizer Mean? – By Allyn Paul

4)         Basics On Tree Fertilization -By Steve Nix

There is a chance that after a few weeks a white haze may appear on the surface of the pavers. It may appear randomly or in certain areas and will be more pronounced on dark colored pavers. The white haze may give the impression that the color of the pavers is fading. When wet, the white haze disappears and the color of the pavers is enhanced. When they dry, the white have reappears. This is known as efflorescence.

Efflorescence is completely natural and will disappear with time.

Concrete products use lime or water soluble Calcium Oxide. As water enters the concrete pavers or block wall products it moves thru microscopic capillaries thru their interior. The water reacts with the Calcium Oxide and that creates Calcium Hydroxide which is then carried to the surface of the pavers or blocks. Once exposed on the surface it reacts with the Carbon Dioxide in the air and forms a white haze of Calcium Carbonate. When moisture on the surface evaporates, the white haze becomes visible and the Efflorescence is visible.

Getting Rid of Efflorescence

Because the blocks have a limited amount of lime in them, this process will stop over time on its own. However there are cleaners you can use to hurry the process up. A light muriatic acid mix with water can be used to eliminate the surface Efflorescence. This should be done by a professional that is familiar with the process. If applied to long or too concentrated it can bleach the color from the pavers or block wall products. However, as long as there is Calcium Hydroxide remaining in the pavers or blocks Efflorescence will continue to reappear and the cleaning will need to be repeated.

When will Efflorescence stop?

The efflorescence process will stop when the supply of Calcium Hydroxide is exhausted. Typically, depending on the climate you live in, Efflorescence will stop developing within 18 months but can last up to 24 months.

Will it go away on its own?

In the Northwest it will go away all by itself but it takes time. Rain water and exposure to weather will help the process. So unless you are impatient, then you can just leave it alone.

Can I do anything to remove it?

Yes. Efflorescence can be cleaned with a commercial cleaner formulated specifically for concrete products. Please note: Clay and Concrete products need different cleaners! Also, if you use a cleaner before all the Calcium Hydroxide is exhausted you may need to clean them again later on. Test cleaners on a sample spot before using them on the entire patio and follow all the directions on the product to get the best results and prevent injuries.

This information provided by ICPI Efflorescence flyer. Please go to www.icpi.org/ICPI for more information

Transforming Landscapes into Peaceful Garden Retreats

by Jeff Naramor, Certified Professional Horticulturist (CPH)

Imagine the healing powers of returning home from a busy day and relaxing in your own garden retreat. It’s easy to do, even if you live in an urban environment.

What makes the difference between a beautiful garden and a garden retreat, you might ask? A garden is an area of grounds laid out with flowers, trees, edible and ornamental shrubs, and is for recreation and viewing enjoyment. A garden retreat is a place of its own. It is space that offers peace, quiet, privacy, and security. It is a magic you can sense before you even reach your front door. As your hand touches the doorknob, you are gently surrounded by the fragrance of flowering plants that welcome you home. Lush foliage provides a visual delight and you hear the twitter of birds, mingled with the bubbling tones from the water feature that attracts them to your yard. Immediately, the stresses of the day begin to melt away as your garden retreat beckons you to enter.

Yet, the difference between a landscape and a garden retreat affects more than our senses. Modern day stress fills our lives with the conflicts of traffic, the contest of our careers, the consumption of our resources, and the carefulness of our relationships. A garden retreat provides a haven of peace and contentment where we can find room to gather our thoughts and achieve true physical, spiritual, and emotional relaxation.

On a physical level, caring for your private garden retreat can burn calories, build muscle, and strengthen endurance. The psychological benefits range from a total acceptance from your garden of who you are, to the intoxicating sweetness and fragrance of the plants that surround you. On a spiritual level, regardless of belief or practice, a garden retreat supports the harmonious relationship between spirit and mind, helping to refocus and sustain the search for inner peace. Garden retreats also offer a practical side to well being. They are a place to dine, a space for thoughtful conversation, a gift to share with family and friends, and an environment to conduct your daily exercise regimes.

Garden retreats do not need to be completed in a few days, weeks, or even months. An organic process that can emerge over time, a garden retreat begins with a vision, a plan, and an initial investment that earns deep rewards in the long run. Defined by the owner’s personal character, a garden retreat is a vision above and beyond an ordinary landscape. A plan that can be drafted to include conceptual ideas that express personal tastes and desires, a garden retreat can be implemented in stages that reflect personal needs and available budgets. An on-going feast for the senses, the plants in a garden retreat can take decades to mature. Yet at each stage of growth, they offer grace and beauty and quietly reveal their secrets as they embrace and welcome you home.

Jeff Naramor of America the Beautiful Landscape Design can be reached at: 360-828-8597or at: jeff@americathebeautifullandscaping.com. Or vist the website at: www.americathebeautifullandscaping.com